GARDEN SPOT - CAN WE TALK?
How do you feed an Organic Garden, if not chemicals?
by City Girl Gardener on 10/14/11
I use molasses, epson salt, seaweed and the best compost that I can find. I also make my own compost. I put my garden scraps, coffee grounds, leaves, grass ( Do not use grass that is treated with chemicals.) and dirt in my composter.
BlackStrap Molasses - as a soil amendment, is a good source of iron, calcium, high carbon and nutrient content, which nurtures soil and composting microbes. Molasses is also an excellent source of cooper and manganese and a very good source of potassium, and magnesium. In addition, blackstrap molasses is a good source of vitamin B6 and selenium.
Epson Salt - In gardening, Epson Salt is used to correct magnesium deficiency in soil since magnesium is an essential element in the chlorophyll molecule. It is most commonly applied to potted plants, or to magnesium-hungry crops, such as potatoes, roses, tomatoes, and peppers. The advantage of magnesium sulfate over other magnesium soil amendments (such as dolomitic lime) is its high solubility.
Seaweed - The liquid concentrate is used as a foliar spray. Floiar spraying with seaweed supply nutrients to plants via leaves, a method which has been shown to be 95% efficient, within an hour or so most of the nutrients have been translocated to the roots. The following benefits of seaweed have been observed; enhanced seed germination and increased root and plant growth.
I also research for answers, options, solutions, opinions, and experiences from other organic gardeners.
This summer, I sprinkled epson salt around my pepper and okra plants. The results were out standing. I picked jalapeno, banana and bell peppers and okra every other day.
Fruit growing in Texas - What about berries?
by City Girl Gardener on 03/26/11
The health industry has really pushed berries as the remedy for many illnesses such as memory loss. And therefore, the garden nurseries are pushing berries! But, what they don’t tell us is; when to plant, where to plant, how to feed, etc. So I have reprint below some information from the Texas Agriculture Department on growing fruit in Texas. How ever, there is an Ag department for every area of the country, just google for how to plant fruit in your state. And read, read, read, so that you too are informed and wise about how you spend your gardening dollars.
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/fruitgarden/fruitvariety.html#blackberries
Blackberries are among the easiest of all small fruit crops to grow in Texas. They produce well on a wide variety of soils as long as drainage is good. Soils with a pH near or above 8.0 can cause serious problems with iron chlorosis. The yellowing and poor growth resulting from iron chlorosis is difficult to correct economically.
Plantings of Brazos blackberries have produced up to 1 gallon of berries per foot of row when properly managed. Realistically, plan for about 1 to 2 quarts per foot of row and plant accordingly.
Set either root cuttings or young plants 2 to 3 feet apart in a row. If you plant more than one row, space the rows 10 to 12 feet apart. The most productive varieties are erect and do not require a trellis or support.
Frequent watering is beneficial, especially to young plants. Water first-year plantings at least weekly through harvest. After harvest, some moisture stress is not harmful to a healthy planting.
Blackberries can usually be grown without an extensive pesticide program. Disease problems can be severe in portions of East and Southeast Texas. Plant blackberries for away from wild blackberries to minimize disease problems.
Proper soil, water and care are essential for successful blueberry growing. Blueberries require acid, sandy soils with a pH of 4.5 to 5.5. These soils occur extensively in East and Southeast Texas and in localized pockets in North, Central and South Texas. Blueberries also require good-quality water with low sodium and bicarbonates.
Blueberries thrive best in soils enriched with composted organic matter. Ideally, mix about 1/2 bushel of peat moss with the topsoil in the planting hole of each plant. If you are attempting to grow blueberries in soils with insufficient acidity, dig a hole at least 36 inches in diameter and 18 inches deep and mix at least 50 percent composted organic matter with the top soil. Blueberries thrive in 100 percent peat moss, so there is no limit to the amount you can use.
Calcareous or clay soils are almost impossible to modify sufficiently for blueberries. Blueberry enthusiasts with unsuitable soils should grow plants in tubs using a potting soil high in peat moss.
Plant at least two blueberry varieties to ensure adequate cross-pollination. The listed varieties are all of the rabbiteye type. Other types of blueberries are not well adapted to Texas.
Mulch plants heavily with organic material such as pine bark, sawdust, leaves, grass clippings, wood chips or hay. This aids in moisture conservation and weed control.
Blueberries are sensitive to over-fertilization. Spread fertilizer uniformly over the root area beneath and out from the plant. Use several small applications (1/8 to 1/4 cup per plant) during the spring and summer rather than a single large application. Avoid nitrate forms of nitrogen. Fertilizers formulated for azaleas work well.
While strawberries can be grown for several years, they perform best in Texas when grown as an annual plant. This production system eliminates the need to carry plants through the ravages of summer.
Spring-bearing varieties are the best adapted for most regions of Texas. Ever-bearing strawberry varieties do not fruit well under hot summer conditions.
Fall Planting System. In South Texas, plant annual strawberries from late September to the first week of October. They require a great deal of care; do not allow them to dry out. In this system, set plants in double rows 12 inches apart and 42 inches wide. After harvest the following spring, plants are usually destroyed. In North and West Texas, annual planting is done in late winter or spring. Production is greatest the next spring, 1 full year after planting.
In areas where the soil is saline or contains too much clay, construct a raised bed about 10 inches deep. Fill with loose, pliable, well-drained soil.
Spring Planting System. Set plants 18 inches apart in a single row. Runners set through the summer develop a matted row. The primary crop is harvested in the spring, 1 year after planting.
THE SECRET IS IN THE SOIL. SECRETS TO SOIL SUCCESS
by City Girl Gardener on 02/26/11
Click on the message above, "The Secret is in the soil". It is a copy of an article from Bontantical Gardens. After you read it, you will want to shop for seeds. Please click on the Botantical Gardens advertisement on the page and go to their site as my reader and shop!.
My winter garden grew and is still producing. I harvest collard and mustard greens, spinach, 3 types of lettuce, broccoli, carrotts, cabbage, green onions and an array of herbs; today. The secret, is in the soil. I added 4" of compost, from Milliesbarn, to my garden, worked it in with the existing soil and it has produced a wonderful garden. I fed my plants on dried molasses, seaweed and a little epson salt. No chemical sitmulates, no bug controls, just soil, food and water. See my pictures.
My winter lesson; plant as directed on the packaging. My plants were too close which inhibited the size of my cabbages and other greens. In stead of 10-12" apart, they should have been a min. of 18" apart. When it was time to thin the plants, I didn't go far enough. You will see that in my pictures. Overall, I was very satisfied and so was my family, friends and neighbors (I will be selling produce this spring).
The time has come for us to eat from the land we are struggling to support; our homes. The news is repeatly telling us that the food that we eat is making us sick. What will it take to get us to go back to the basics? Gas prices at $3+? Well, here we are, supplement the price of gas and the cost of health care with wellness. Grow your own food.
Remember, my site is supported by your purchases through my site . I have selected reputable vendors, help me continue to encourage others to live healthy, go to my/your favorite vendors such as Amazon, and Google via my site. Thank You.
Milliesbarn - Know Your Farmer
by City Girl Gardener on 10/31/10
Today, we hosted Milton and Diane Woods of Milliesbarn to talk about our food supply, nutrition and how-to become a backyard gardener. Yesterday, I visted Milliesbarn to pick up compost for my winter garden and decided to pick a few mustard greens for dinner, soon, we were picking greens for 20+ to share with the friends at today's gathering.
The forum was great, we learned a lot. However, the most popular issue of the day was; how good those greens were. So, as I promised, I am following up on the gathering with Dan's collard greens recipe.
Dan's Greens
City Girl Gardener: Caroline said "I know Dan must be limping, because he put his foot in those greens". What is the recipe?
City Girl Gardener: Hold on now, that's not the full story. Someone else promptly said to Diane, the nutrionist, they couldn't have been healthy, tasting that good!.
Diane: Well no, probably not as healthy as they could have been, because they were cooked longer than required but, baby steps in the right direction, greens have great nutritional value.
Dan: Okay, I am trying to get there. But today, this is how I cook my greens.
Depending on the quantity:
-I boil an onion or two with smoked turkey wings (organic if you can find them).
-I lightly season the meat with season salt and lemon pepper and boil for about an hour.
-Once the meat is tender, I remove from the pot and cut the turkey meat off the bone, remove the skin and bone to the garbage bin.
- I then dice the meat and onions and return them to pot with the remaining liquid.
- Start adding the fresh greens. You want to have at least three (3) inches of broth when you start adding the greens to the pot
-I don’t have specific measurements for seasoning salt however; I limit the amount of seasoning when cooking Mustard greens because they seem to have a salty taste (more than Collards)
-I add a few teaspoons of sugar and about 2 to 6 teaspoons of vegetable oil based on the quantity.
Let them cook down, and then simmer, until they reach the consistency you want and the greens are ready to serve.
City Girl Gardener: Thanks Dan, we are waiting on Diane's organic greens recipe to see if we can marry the 2 recipes that will allow us to benefit from the nutrition value of the greens and enjoy the great taste. The greens were great!
Now, I think I am going to have to invite all of you back to enjoy the okra that I also brought from the farm.
EPSOM SALT AND YOUR FALL GARDEN
by City Girl Gardener on 09/07/10
Let's get this fall garden started. My tip to share today is all about using Epsom Salt to help get our fall gardens off to a good start.
Studies show that magnesium and sulfur, two components of Epsom Salt may:
- Help seeds germinate
- Make plants grow bushier
- Produce more flowers
- Increase chlorophyll production
- Improve phosphorus and nitrogen uptake
Magnesium and sulfur are the two major components of Epsom Salt. Crop researchers have determined that magnesium is:
- A critical mineral for seed germination.
- Vital to the production of chlorophyll, which plants use to transform sunlight into food.
- An aid in the absorption of phosphorus and nitrogen, two of the most important fertilizer components.
Sulfur, the other major component of Epsom Salt, is also an important plant nutrient. Sulfer may:
- Contribute to chlorophyll production.
- Make the primary nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) found in most fertilizers more effective.
Although magnesium and sulfur occur naturally in soil, they can be depleted by various conditions, including heavy agricultural use over time. But unlike most commercial fertilizers, which build up in the soil over time, Epsom Salt is not persistent so you can't overuse it. Tests by the National Gardening Association confirm - roses fertilized with Epsom Salt grow bushier and produce more flowers, while the compound makes pepper plants grow larger than those treated with commercial fertilizer alone.
